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The Wild Race!

The Wild Race is our latest work in progress. The Wild Race is a quick play mini game that is currently in the Beta Test Phase. On this page you will find the most up to date rules for this game which you can copy, paste and print out at your leisure. We are currently seeking feedback on this game and the rules and so all we ask is that if you play a game of The Wild Race, that you are kind enough to get in touch with us (preferably via Twitter) and tell us all about your experience. Anyone who participates in this Beta Test will become a proud member of our Wild Race Hall of Heroes where we will link to your Website/Blog/Twitter/Youtube ect. 

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Once we are fully happy with this rule set then we will fully illustrate this page with diagrams and explanations. We will also run some sort of Tournament/Campaign for The Wild Race in the distant future. 

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But for now here are the current rules for The Wild Race:

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The Wild Race: Beta Test
 The Wild Race is a stand-alone tabletop miniatures game that can be played by any amount of players in only a short period of time. This rule set will allow you to play a complete game of The Wild Race using any of the miniatures or models at your disposal. The rules have been written with the idea of using models mounted on horseback but any cavalry model or even motorbike model will work, the scale of the miniatures does not matter too much (between 20 mm and 35 mm) so long as every racer has a similar size of base. 


What you will need-

  • Models- a minimum of one per player or a maximum of three so long as each player has an equal amount of models to control and individual models can be easily recognised. 

  • Dice- you will need several 6 sided dice, commonly referred to as D6. Sometimes they will be refereed to as D3, this means that the score on the dice is halved and rounded up. (so the score will only ever be either 1, 2 or 3)

  • A tape measure- measuring will need to be kept very accurate when playing The Wild Race

  • A playing space- The bigger the space the longer the game will take, the space will need to be divided into a race track. We recommend a space wide enough for every model to be place side by side with a half inch gap between them and 2" till the side of the course. You will then need a minimum of a 60" long marked out as a race course. 

  • Scenery- Any amount of scenery can be used, we recommend using 5-10 pieces that could represent walls, hedgerows, fallen statues, small ruins etc.  

  • Something to mark out the edge of the course, something like a roll of string is usually ideal.

  • A pen and paper- each player or a trusted player must keep track of models lives, favour points, stamina and their score if playing a tournament. 


Keeping track of your models
It is important to track the progress of each players models. Therefore each player must give the models under their control a unique name and find a way of remembering which model is which. On the paper next to their names a section should be set aside to mark off any lives that they may lose, any favour points that they gain and how much stamina they have remaining. 

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Lives
Each model has a set number of lives, once this reaches zero then that model is taken off the board as a casualty and can take no further action for that race.  The number of lives depends upon how many models each player is controlling. If each player has 1 model then each model as 3 lives, if each player has 2 models then each model has 2 lives, if each player has 3 models then each model has 1 life. 

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Favour points
The crowds that come to watch The Wild Race love to see some action and violence! A model earns a favour point by performing a trick or causing some carnage. When a point is earned it is marked on your paper next to each model. Favour points can be cashed in whenever that model rolls a dice. Only one favour point can be used per model per turn. Using a favour point lets you either re-roll a dice that has been rolled on behalf of that model or modify the result of the dice by 1 point. For example, your model has been made to roll on the Unbalanced chart and your D6 came up with a 2, you can either, use a favour point to modify the roll to either a 1 or a 3, or you can re-roll that dice. If you choose to re-roll you must accept the new result no matter what it is. A re-roll cannot be modified. 

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Stamina points
Each model starts with 5 points of Stamina. Stamina points are used as extra inches of movement to a models normal maximum of 10". They can be used at any time during either the Movement Phase, the Barge Phase or the Scenery Phase, but once a point of stamina is used it cannot be regained. A player can use as many points as they want during a turn but spare points do not carry over into the next race.   

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Strength of Hits
In The Wild Race riders can often take a good beating and suffer some serious pain. Occasionally when a model suffers damage it will be required to take a Strength (x) hit. The number that replaces (x) is the score that rider needs roll (either equal to or higher than) on a D6 to avoid losing a life. For example, your opponent decides to whip your rider in the face and your model has to take a Strength 3 hit, this means that your rider will lose a life if you roll a 1 or a 2 but your rider will be okay if you roll a 3 or higher

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Scenery
In a game of The Wild Race scenery is divided into two sections, Small obstacles and Large obstacles. Players must agree before the race begins on which bits of scenery are in which category. Small obstacles are ones that models can jump over and Large obstacles are ones that are simply too big or tall and must be avoided. Small obstacles are best represented by scenery that is no taller than any of the models and no deeper than the base of a model. Large Obstacles should not take up too much room on the race course so they do not spoil the game. 

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The edge of the course
The barriers around the edge of the course cannot be jumped or moved during a race. Should a model be forced into the edge of the course then he takes a Strength 4 hit for every inch of movement that he cannot move with a minimum of a single hit. e.g a rider is 2 inches away from the edge of the course and he gets barged into the side by a total of 4 inches. The model would moved 2 inches into base contact with the side and would therefore take the remaining 2 inches as two Strength 4 hits.

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Reduced Movement
During a game of The Wild Race there are times when your movement will be reduced by (x) amount of inches", when this happens, leave a dice on that models base showing the appropriate number. These effects can stack up if you are unlucky enough to suffer multiple negative effects. However these negative effects can never take your movement below zero.

 

 

Set up- 
Pick a start and finish line and mark out a fairly wide race course between the two, a couple of twists and turns would improve things, a scattering of scenery with 4-5 small obstacles and only 1 or 2 Large obstacles is ideal and makes the game more interesting. Players should take it in turns to place the Obstacles. Note: Obstacles are recycled once all the racers have passed them, but can only be placed behind the furthest away obstacle (more will be explained in the Scenery Phase). Each model begins on the starting line side by side with each other with at least a half inch gap between models. Only the very front of the base can touch the starting line and there should be enough room for every model to sit side by side. Each player rolls a D6 with the highest scoring player placing their models first and the lowest scoring player going last. There must be a clear opening straight of at least 20” before any scenery or corners so the riders can get going in peace. 

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Objective- 
The objective of this game is simply to be the first player to get a model in base contact with the finishing line while causing as much carnage as possible and entertaining the crowd. If you decided to play a tournament or a series of games then you may carry on the game to see which models come 2nd or 3rd etc 

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The Starting Turn
The starting pistol has fired and they are off!
The Starting Turn is different from the normal turn sequence and proceeds as follows. Each player moves their models 5" forwards and adds D6 extra inches to that movement. Players can only move in a straight line directly forwards and cannot use Stamina points in the Starting Turn, players cannot Spur, Whip or Barge during this turn and no Obstacles are moved. Once every player has moved all of their models then the race begins. 

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The Race Begins
Every race is split into Turns and every Turn is split into 4 Phases. At the beginning of every Turn all the players roll to decide who goes first. Each player rolls one D6 and the highest scoring player goes first in each Phase with the lowest scoring player going last in each Phase. Favour points can be used for this roll but only 1 per turn. In the event of a tie you must re-roll.  

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Turn sequence
-Roll to see who goes first in each phase of this turn.
-Movement phase 
-Spur and Whip phase
-Barge phase
-Scenery phase
-Repeat

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Movement Phase- 
In order of who rolled the highest each player moves their models up to 10 inches, being careful as to which way they are left facing and avoiding any Large obstacles. Models are free to pivot at the start and end of each movement but they must move in a straight line (this does not include stamina points). A model may not stop, turn and start moving again (unless using Stamina points). If this takes you into base contact with any scenery that has been marked as a Small Obstacle then you may attempt to jump it providing you have enough movement left to take you entirely over the obstacle. Roll a D6 on the Jump Chart:

Jump Chart
1- Refusal- The mount refuses and catapults the rider over the obstacle. The rider suffers a Strength 4 hit, if this kills him remove the model as a casualty. If the rider survives he dusts himself off and stands back up, he spends the rest of the turn climbing back over the obstacle and onto his mount. He can take no further action this turn and loses 2" off his Movement in the next turn. In the next turn he must go around the obstacle or roll again on this chart. 
2- Hesistant- The mount hesitates and stumbles over the obstacle, it is placed in base contact with the other side of the obstacle but may take no further action this turn. 
3-4-5- Jump- The racer leaps over the obstacle as if it wasn’t there and may carry on with the rest of its movement
6- Leap- The racer leaps over the obstacle, does a stunt of some sort and may carry on with its movement as above. This model also gains 1 favour point.

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A model must immediately attempt to make an Overtake manoeuvre if it moves into base contact with an enemy model in the Movement Phase and still has enough movement left to go completely through the enemy model. Roll on the Overtake chart below and apply any effects immediately. 

Overtake Chart
1- Rearend Collision- Your timing is terrible and you run directly into the rear of your opponent. Your model stops immediately and the other model moves forward 1". You must take a Strength 3 hit and can make no further actions this turn. 
2- Block- The model stops as it makes base contact with the opposing model. The mount rears up. Roll on the Unbalanced Chart and you cannot make any more actions this turn.
3-4- Overtaken- Your model can move through the opposing model as if it was not there.
5- Bump- Your model can move through your opponent unharmed and your opponent must roll on the Unbalanced Chart
6- Slipstream- You can go through the opposing model and gain an extra D3 inches of extra movement.


Spur and Whip Phase
After all sides have moved all of their models, a player may declare that they are going to Spur their own mount, this is done in the same order as priority. You may only Spur once per model per turn. Roll a D6 on the Spur Chart:

Spur Chart
1- Wild Beast- The mount does not take kindly to the Spurs digging into it's sides and the rider loses control of it. Roll on the Unbalanced chart
2-3- Numb- The mount ignores you completely, no further action can be taken this Phase
4-5- Yah!- The mount is spurred on and you may move an additional 1” immediately
6- Yeehaw! -The mounts eyes light up and you must move 2” in a forward direction to how the model is facing. Note: This may force you into Barge or to jump a Small obstacle.

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Also, as well as Spurring you can use your Whip. If you are within 1” of another model you can attempt to Whip them or their mount. If you choose to whip their mount then the opposing player must roll on the Spur Chart. (note: this is could mean you attempt to force an opponent into the path of an oncoming piece of scenery or you could whip one of your own models to gain some extra distance.) If you choose to whip a rival rider roll on the Whip chart: 

Whip Chart
1-  Disaster!- Your opponent grabs your whip and keeps it for themselves. This model no longer has the ability to Whip in this race and should be noted on the paper. You may make no further actions this turn.
2- Tug of War!- Your opponent pulls at your whip forcing you to let go of the reigns, roll on the unbalanced chart. You can make no further actions this phase. 
3-4-  Clang- Your whip strikes a piece of your opponents armour and has no effect, no further action is taken. 
5- Stinger- Your whip successfully strikes a piece of skin and as your opponent raises their hand in self defence they let go of the reigns they must roll on the Unbalanced chart
6- Crack!- You manage to strike your opponent in the face, they suffer a Strength 3 hit and must roll on the unbalanced chart. Your model gains 1 favour point. 

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Barge Phase
If, at the start of the Barge phase two opposing models are in base contact with each other then the model that moved into the contact gets to roll a D6 on the Barge Chart. 
Players take it in turns to make Barge moves with the player who moved first going first. If you have a model within 4" of an opposing model you can attempt to make a Barge move. Both you and the model you are Barging roll a D6, if you roll highest then you move into the nearest point of base contact with the other model and roll a D6 on the Barge Chart. If the other model rolls highest, or it is a tie, then they get to make a free move up to that distance towards the finish line. Models cannot Barge if they would need to roll on the Jump Chart or Overtake Chart. 

Barge Chart
1- Catastrophy!- As they prepare for impact your racer slips on the saddle and loses grip on the reigns, you must roll on the Unbalanced Chart. 
2- Slip- Your opponent read your mind and dodged out of the way. You lose 2" from your movement in the next phase and cannot make any more actions this turn.
3- Arm Wrestle- Both models are distracted by each other and both you and your opponent lose 2" from your movement next turn. Neither model can make any more actions this turn. 
4- Surprise!- You can move so that you are side by side with your opponent unless there are obstacles or scenery in the way.
5- Oomph!- Your opponent loses 2" of movement in their next movement phase and can make no more actions for this turn. . 
6- Boosh!- A massive impact makes you opponent fall off their horse. The opposing model suffers a Strength 4 hit and loses 6" from thier movement in the next phase, they cannot make any more actions in this phase. Your model gains a favour point. 

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Once a model has been Barged they cannot then make their own Barge move for this Turn.

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Scenery Phase
To represent the speed of the race and the foreground and background becoming blurred it is possible for scenery to sneak up on the racers. To represent this each player may move 1 obstacle, Large or Small, up to 3” forward (away from the finish line), sideways or diagonally but always within the race course. This is done in order of the player who moved first. If this means that a Small obstacle comes into base contact with a model then they must immediately roll on the Jump Chart. If a Large obstacle comes into base contact with a model then they automatically lose a life and lose 6" from their Move distance next turn. A model can use points of Stamina to move out of the way if they have enough points left. 


Recycling Scenery
It is possible and advisable for Scenery or Obstacles to be recycled once it has been passed by the last placed rider. Recycled scenery is placed by the player who moved first this turn. It must be placed behind and no closer than 6" to the furthest forward (away from the finiah line) piece of scenery or model and it cannot be moved this turn. Note players cannot move the same piece of scenery in one turn. When there is no room for scenery to be placed then it is simply removed. 

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Unbalanced Chart.
Roll a D6
1- Catapult- The rider is launched out of the saddle and suffers a Strength 5 hit, if this kills them remove the model as a casualty. If the rider survives they dust themselves off and stand back up, then spend the rest of the turn climbing back onto the mount. This model loses 6" of their movement in their next movement phase and they can take no further action this turn.
2- Slow Fall- The rider tries to cling onto the horse but fails, although they land softly. They clamber back onto the saddle but lose 4" of movement in their next movement phase. They can make no further actions during the rest of this turn.
3- Whao- The rider yanks on the reigns and accidentally pulls the mount D3+1” in a random direction, (Roll a D6, 1-3 goes to the riders left, 4-6 goes to the riders Right), if this takes them into the scenery they suffer a Strength 5 hit, if this takes them into another model then they count as having been barged into and the other model must roll on the Barge chart. This model loses 2" in the next Movement Phase and make no further actions this turn.
4- Easy- The rider manages to regain control of his mount but it has cost them valuable time, they lose 2" of movement in their next Movement Phase
5- Steady- Well positioned, this model suffers no penalty. 
6- Bill Paying Skills- The rider slides onto the side of the mount but by some great acrobatic skill manages to launch back into the saddle. Gain 1 favour point. No further penalty. 

Once every player has taken their turn in the Scenery Phase and all effects have been settled then it is time to move on to the next turn. As normal, roll to see who goes first in each Phase. Repeat this process until all models have come into base contact with the finish line or have been removed as casualties. 


Victory.
The first model to get its base into contact with the finish line wins. Simple as that. Players can carry on with the game to work out which riders finished in which position.

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Tournament mode!

Grand Prix
Instead of one race a series of races are held, players may choose the amount of races in the series and the amount of riders each player may take. Points are given for the position a rider finished the race in and are added up at the end to see the final standings

 

  • 1st place gets 15 points for their rider and team. 

  • 2nd place gets 12 points for their rider and team.

  • 3rd place gets 10 points for their rider and team.

  • 4th place gets 9 points for their rider and team.

  • 5th place gets 8 points for their rider and team.

  • 6th place gets 7 points for their rider and team.

  • 7th place gets 6 points for their rider and team.

  • 8th place gets 5 points for their rider and team.

  • 9th place gets 4 points for their rider and team.

  • 10th place gets 3 points for their rider and team.

  • 11th place gets 2 points  for their rider and team.

  • DNF is always given for the rider that comes in last place and they get 0 points. 

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Keep track of the scores and at the end of the Grand Prix prizes are awarded for the best riders and the best Players team score. (Note a teams score is simply all of that players riders scores added together.) The model that causes the most deaths gets a 10 point bonus. 

Any riders removed as casualties during a race are given plenty of time to rest and as such they may enter the next race without any penalties. 

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Have Fun and Happy Wargaming!

Please feel free to get in touch with us (preferably on Twitter) and let us know how you found The Wild Race. We like to know all about:
The parts you enjoyed
The parts you didn't enjoy
The parts that worked well
Which bits need ironing out
Any bits that you would add
Rules Queries
but most importantly, how your games panned out! 

If you can include pictures of a reasonable quality then if you wish we will put them on our website!

 

In the Future we intend to add option rules for things like, Bandit Archers/snipers, exploding barrels, falling trees/pillars, giant Vultures. We would also like to add an achievements page and some pre set courses and tournaments. 

 

Here are some pictures of our BETA testing games just for your amusement. 
 

Thanks! Message sent.

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